Blue fishing boats, sea-washed ramparts and a laid-back medina on Morocco's windy Atlantic coast. Here's what Essaouira is like with the family, when to go and how long to stay.
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Essaouira stays mild all year, with highs of around 20°C in winter and mid-20s in summer, so it never gets as hot as Marrakech. Spring and autumn are the most pleasant. In summer the trade winds blow hard, which is great for kitesurfing but less so for lying on the beach. The Gnaoua music festival usually takes over the town in June.
The old sea ramparts lined with bronze cannons, with waves crashing below and views along the coast.
Watch the blue boats come in, then pick fish at the grill stalls and have it cooked on the spot.
A UNESCO-listed old town with whitewashed lanes, woodworkers and spice shops, calmer than Marrakech's souks.
A long sandy bay with camel and horse rides, and surf and kitesurf schools for all levels.
A wilder surf beach about half an hour south, with a few cafés and plenty of space.
Women's cooperatives on the road inland show how argan oil is made, often with goats in the trees nearby.
Ryanair has flown from London Stansted to Essaouira, usually a few times a week, but schedules change by season. Otherwise fly to Marrakech and drive about three hours to the coast.
Yes, if you don't mind wind. The beach is long and sandy, but the Atlantic breeze can be strong, especially from June to August. It's better for walks, riding and watersports than all-day sunbathing.
They're very different. Essaouira is smaller, cooler and more relaxed, while Marrakech is busier with more big sights. Many people combine the two.
Two or three days covers the town, harbour and ramparts. A week lets you slow down, add a surf lesson and visit the beaches to the south.
Put Essaouira on standby with everyone's other ideas. You each spread your points in secret, get one veto, and the draw picks where you go.