Rovaniemi, Levi or Saariselkä: which part of Lapland is best?

The short version

Rovaniemi: Santa's home town

Rovaniemi is a small city right on the Arctic Circle, and the official home of Santa Claus. Santa Claus Village, just outside town, is free to visit, with Santa's office open every day of the year, the Arctic Circle line painted on the ground and Santa's main post office. SantaPark is a separate, ticketed underground park with an elf school and gingerbread baking.

It's the easiest of the three to reach, with the most flights, and it has the most to do away from the snow: the Arktikum museum, shops and plenty of places to eat. The downside is that it's busy in December, and the town lights make the northern lights harder to see, so you'll need to go out on a tour for the best chance.

Levi: the ski resort

Levi is Finnish Lapland's biggest ski resort, about 170 km north of Rovaniemi, with more than 40 slopes and a compact village where hotels, cabins, restaurants and lifts are all close together. Many UK Lapland trips use Kittilä airport, about 15 minutes away.

There's no Santa Claus Village here, but Christmas tour companies run Santa visits in the forest, usually with a sleigh ride, plus husky safaris, reindeer farms and snowmobiling. Lainio Snow Village, a hotel and gallery carved from snow and ice, is about half an hour away. It suits families who want a proper ski holiday as well as a Christmas trip.

Saariselkä: the wilderness

Saariselkä is a tiny village about 250 km north of the Arctic Circle, on the edge of Urho Kekkonen National Park. It's the quietest of the three, with fells, forest and very little light pollution, which is why it's known for glass igloos and northern lights. Ivalo airport is around 25 minutes away.

There's a small ski area and a long toboggan run, and husky, reindeer and snowshoe trips start right from the village. The Siida Sámi museum at Inari, about 40 minutes away, is a good way to learn about Lapland's own people. Santa visits are on offer in December, but it's less Santa-themed than Rovaniemi.

Daylight and the cold

The further north you go, the darker December gets. In Rovaniemi the sun is up for little more than two hours around the shortest day. In Levi and Saariselkä, further north, the sun barely clears the horizon, if at all, for a few weeks. It's not pitch black, though: there are several hours of soft blue twilight in the middle of the day, and snow reflects what light there is.

All three are cold, typically -10°C to -20°C in December, and sometimes much colder. Tour companies lend thermal suits and boots, but you'll still want thermals, a hat, a neck warmer and good mittens.

Northern lights

The aurora is possible anywhere in Lapland from late August to early April on dark, clear nights. Saariselkä has the best odds of the three, because it's furthest north and far from town lights. Levi is a close second. In Rovaniemi you'll want to head out of town on a tour.

December is often cloudy, though, so don't build a trip only around the lights. January to March tends to be clearer and has more daylight for everything else.

Getting there and how long to stay

Rovaniemi has the most flights, including direct winter flights from several UK airports. Levi (via Kittilä) and Saariselkä (via Ivalo) have direct charter flights in winter, or you can change in Helsinki. Some families take a day trip to Rovaniemi on a charter flight, but it's a long, rushed day for children.

Three or four nights is enough for a Santa visit, huskies and reindeer. Stay a week in Levi if you want to ski. Whichever you choose, December is the busiest and dearest month, so book as early as you can.

Other snowy Christmas ideas

Lapland isn't the only place for a snowy Christmas. Tromsø in Arctic Norway has fjords, whales and northern lights. For Alpine snow, see Zermatt and Innsbruck. Our guide to where to go for a white Christmas has more, and our Christmas holidays page lists everywhere that's good at Christmas.